Here, in this tranquil setting, on September 21, A.D. Nothing moved except a trio of deer that bolted out of sight when they spotted us.
The site was completely empty, like a fallow field. It was not the pretty little spot we had envisioned but rather a vast oval plain, about a half mile across and surrounded by earthen ramparts. Now, as we parked our car and made our way through some small woods, we felt as if we had been transported into another world.īefore us lay the ancient campsite of Attila the Hun. Only two hours earlier, we had been in Paris. In the distance, we could hear the church bells of the tiny farming village of La Cheppe. The morning mists were rising as we approached our destination. Oh yes, we also had a bottle of chilled champagne. So we armed ourselves with a slice of pâté, a hunk of cheese, and a fresh baguette and set off. It sounded like a perfect spot for a picnic. Cross a little stream and go through a scruffy wood, we were told, and you will find yourself in a lovely clearing. It had been described to us as one of the loveliest places in Champagne.
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